It’s almost time for the National Arts Festival in Grahamstown (can you believe it?). The fest kicks off on 26 June and ends on 5 July. Theatre, dance, music, art, film … we’re overwhelmed just thinking about the sensory overload that fest-goers are sure to experience. There are too many highlights to mention, obviously, but we will recommed you check out Nontsikelelo Veleko’s exhibition while you’re at the NFA…. 

Lolo, as she’s called, is a Standard Bank Young Artist of the Year award winner - only the second photographer to have won the prestigious prize. A stalwart of local pop culture, she’s made a name for herself by photographing the edgy fashion stylings of South African youth. She’s earned international recognition for her radical take on identity in her series of street fashion portraits titled ‘Beauty is in the eye of the beholder’ and is gaining in visibility on the local front too.

 

Here’s some of what makes her work so special…

Lolo\'s street fashion portraits have earned her international acclaim

What is the international reaction to your work?

When I thought that my work wasn’t well received here I thought it would be the same over there. But overseas they really enjoyed my work. What they’d seen up until then was mostly focused on apartheid and they didn’t really see what’s happening in contemporary South Africa. I show them what South Africa is like, I make contemporary art.

You focus a lot on issues of identity. Will you continue with this, or are you moving on?

I’m still doing this. We’re constantly redefining ourselves as South Africans, not just black or white. This process is still happening all the time on a national and personal level. It’s still an issue for me and South Africa and for me inside of South Africa. I mean, we have 11 official languages, there’s a lot to tackle, there’s a lot of influences, from the East and West.

Why use clothes as an entry into this debate?

We all enjoy clothes. The SA fashion industry is big right now, everyone wants to be a designer, but I’m surprised that people don’t understand where identity fits into this. If you look at John Galliano and his Scottish themes in his designs and the way he uses all the tribes, he understands the history of the places, and he puts that history on the ramp. It’s interesting that someone from a mixed heritage questions this. I think it comes from our apartheid past and we’re still working through our own stuff.

Where do you find your subjects, especially for Beauty is in the eye of the beholder?

Most of the subjects are from Cape Town. My memories of Cape Town that everyone’s so individualistic in their style. I remember everyone had their own style and people would be outdoing each other. I really yearn for those days. The problem right now is that people are copying each other. Initially, it was a challenge finding people in Johannesburg. I’d find someone, take a picture and then wait three months before I’d find someone else to photograph. It really taught me patience. I’m going to Durban and Bloemfontein next to look for subjects.

How do you convince them to be part of your work?

 It’s not even about my picture, it’s about them. It’s their picture, so I have to find out how they want to be represented. Some amazing people have said ‘no’ to being photographed. but it is some kind of collaboration between us. Sometimes you meet people and they’re running somewhere, so you have to set up an interview, make appointments. I respect their time, there are some who have more time, so you can just point and shoot.

 Are you happy with the body of work you’ve accumulated thus far?

 I’ll never be happy. I wish I had a constant built in eye camera; sometimes I’m not prepared and I wish I had a camera with me. But also sometimes it’s important to take a break because I’m always working with people. For me it’s not about money. Most of our history, as Africans, has been wiped out and this is something that’s rebuilding that. I can show my great grandchildren – I had this life, show them the work I did and the work of my peers. This is bigger than us. I don’t take anything for granted, I experience everything – I go to music shows, exhibitions, theatre, just everything.

You’ve had extremely positive reviews. Some American reviewers, though, seemed to be surprised by how we dress in South Africa. What was the reacion like at the actual exhibitions?

Americans are my favourite people to get upset with. They’re always asking, ‘where are the animal skins’. It’s ridiculous! Whenever they’re here, we have to take them to Sandton to see that we’re a modern city. They still expect us to be in animal skins. But then again, even the Europeans are naïve. It’s time to educate the world, but we have to do it with love and take our time. I mean, just the fact that we have 11 official languages shows that we’re culturally richer than many other places. 

- Janine Jellars